Cosmetics have been in use since Biblical times. They serve not only to soothe the skin and provide relief from minor irritations, but also to cover skin defects and to enhance beauty.
The physician's credo to "first, do no harm", however, is of considerable importance concerning skin care products. If aesthetic concerns were the only consideration with respect to cosmetics, another cosmetic line would certainly not be necessary.
However, potential problems exist with all cosmetics and skin care products currently on the market. Acne cosmetica is a problem seen all too frequently by the dermatologist. Comedogenicity is another major concern. Chemicals such as isopropyl myristate, steareth-16, isopropyl palmitate, cetyl alcohol, stearic acid, laureth-4, and many others, are major causes of acne among users. Oils or petroleum products, such as mineral oil, Jojoba oil or petrolatum, cause severe acne in many patients. Chemical peels, dermabrasion, dermal grafting, and/or laser surgery must be used to correct the resultant acne scarring. Yet, such chemicals and oils are still found in many cosmetic products currently on the market. Clearly, a need exists for a line of cosmetic and skin care products that would not initiate acne and, hence, would protect patients from the need for correction of disfiguring sequelae.
Many chemicals, though not comedogenic, frequently cause contact dermatitis. Indeed, many products on the market contain ingredients that are included in the North American Contact Dermatitis Society's standard patch test tray of 20 allergens. Products such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lanolin (which aggravates eczema or atopic dermatitis), propylene glycol, laureth-4, steareth-16, vitamin E, and other alcohols are frequent causes of contact dermatitis and irritant dermatitis. Imidazolidinyl urea and quaternium-15 are releasers of formaldehyde, the chemical responsible for some of the most severe cases of contact dermatitis seen by a dermatologist. Fragrances, including Balsam of Peru, cinammic alcohol and aldehyde, and numerous natural plant products and extracts, are the most common causes of contact dermatitis originating from cosmetics. Many patients also find perfumes offensive. No product can, of course, be "non-allergenic"; even water can cause a form of hives known as aquagenic urticaria. However, there is a need for a line of cosmetic and skin care products that avoids the use of disease-causing or disease-aggravating chemicals.
As a practicing dermatologist and dermatologic surgeon I feel that it is essential to design cosmetic and skin care products that contain effective concentrations of pertinent chemicals, while avoiding components known to be allergenic, irritating, acne-causing, or comedogenic. Such products should be aesthetically pleasing and yet avoid common clinical problems, such as acne, acne scarring, irritant dermatitis, photosensitivity, or allergic contact sensitization.